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Buenos Aires, Argentina > Buenos Aires restaurants > Sabor Norteno Sabor NortenoLa Rioja 186 (@ Adolfo Alsina); Tel. +(011.54.11) 4931.8300
For the authentic taste and sights of Peru, the people of Buenos Aires make their way to one of the grittiest neighbourhoods in the inner city – Once. Stepping over broken street tiles and around little piles of sodden trash, the photo-montage sign of Sabor Norteno stands out like the area’s towering transvestites or the neon of the love hotels across the street. The restaurant makes the simple pledge to provide ‘the best Peruvian food…’ although it is up to the eater to decide whether the ellipsis that follows the phrase is to allow room for a qualification like ‘… outside of Peru’, ‘… ever!’, or ‘… within a five block radius’. The Peruvian photo-montage theme of the sign is replicated inside Sabor Norteno with another back-lit montage of all of Peru’s major tourist attractions: Machu Pichu, Andean lakes, and ancient facades from Arequipa. While the theme is decidedly family-oriented, with bright lighting, generic seating, and an array of masks and woven products lining the walls, further into the restaurant a luminous green light emanates from a well-stocked bar. Don’t expect candle-lit ambience, although the friendly wait staff are attentive and well-mannered. But just what is Peruvian foood? For starters, Peruvian food tends to have much more spice than it’s Argentine rivals – look for a la criolla to indicate a hot plate or soup. And then there’s the preponderance of sea-food, especially in the regional delicacy of ceviche – a cold plate of various meats of vegetables marinated in lemon juice, chilli, and onion. At Sabor Norteno a plate of ceviche will cost between $15AR - $17AR. To provide the true taste of Peru, the local soft drink Inka Kola can be bought in two and a quarter litre bottles for $15AR. Or the usual Argentine brew of Quilmes can be had for $6AR. Check the chef’s suggestions for more Peruvian delights but don’t expect to find a Peruvian take on pizza or pasta, and there are certainly no hamburgers. —Sabor Norteno review by Murdoch Stephens
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