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Retiro Restaurants

When most people think of Retiro they worry about missing a bus or a train in this giant transit center. In recent years, someone had the bright idea that the area in Retiro surrounding the Plaza San Martin was a fine place for a bite. Talk about a million-dollar idea! These days, Retiro is one of Buenos Aires' restaurant scene's most exclusive zip codes. Retiro currently boasts art friendly Filo – a favorite of Madonna's while visiting – and expatriate friendly Empire Thai and Temple Bar . Anyone who is anyone in Buenos Aires knows to head to Retiro for the finest in fine restaurants – and to bring a credit card.

Café Richmond
Florida 468 (@ La Valle); Tel. +(011.54.11) 4322.1341
$$. Café Richmond is a welcome break for tired feet on bustling Florida. Richmond has become a fixture for the caffeine deprived as it has been serving up remarkably strong coffee since 1917. The surroundings are formal with delectable cushy leather armchairs and impressive chandeliers.
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Empire Thai
Tres Sargentos 427 (@ Reconquista); Tel. +(0011.54.11) 4312.5706
$$-$$$. This gay-friendly eatery is located on the cusp of Retiro, Centro, and Puerto Madero and attracts a surprising variety of clientele for lunch, happy hour and dinner. The space itself is worth a trip.
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Tancat
Paraguay 645 (@ Florída); Tel. +(011.54.11) 4312.5442
$$$$. It’s hard to believe such tranquility exists within a stone’s throw of bustling Florída street. Tancat is an intimate and beautiful space decorated with flattering low lighting, dots of orange paper lanterns, a wall of wine, a bar that stretches the length of the restaurant...
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Café Martinez
Talcahuano 948 (@ Paraguay); Tel. +(011.54.11) 4811.3977
$$-$$$. Café Martinez has perfected the art of keeping the coffee moving over the years by expanding the menu to include a range of quick-lunch favorites like tartas, sandwiches, and salads - perfect for porteños on the go.
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Mumbai
Paraguay 436 (@ Reconquista); Tel. +(011.54.11) 4315.0075
$$$$-$$$$$. Mumbai is very much a family-run place with Menghani and his wife supervising the welfare of their customers and it feels properly Indian with soothing orange walls, flattering lighting, eastern touches, and Indian music lulling you into a basmati rice trance...
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Kilkenny
Marcelo T. de Alvear 399 ; Tel. +(011.54.11) 4312.9179
$$$. Kiklkenny may be the most longest running most popular drinking hole for visitors, expats, gringos at large and extranjeros en masse. Why? Well, we're not sure. The allure of an 'authentic' Irish pub, the under cover hookers who wait till the out-of-towners have that one last drink or maybe the cabbies who hang outside offering more than just a ride.
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Filo
San Martín 975 (@ Marcelo T de Alvear) ; Tel. +(011.54.11) 4311.3303
$$$$. Experiencing Filo is just so groovy that you might not mind if Madonna, Coppola, Lou Reed or any other of this ten-year-old restaurant’s famous patrons doesn’t make an appearance during your visit. The interior is an absolute work of art...
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Café La Barra
Av. Cordoba 484, corner of San Martin, Buenos Aires; Tel. (011.54.11) 4313-2460/2384
La Barra offers a little bit of everything. Come here for anything from a salad, to cannelloni, to veal milanesa, sandwiches, or coffee and pastry.
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