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Buenos Aires, Argentina > Buenos Aires nightlife > Bellegamba Bodegón Bellegamba BodegónRivadavia 2138 (@ Rincon); Tel. +(011.54.11) 4951.5833
Two blocks west of the seat of Congress rests the Bellegamba Bodegón, self described as ‘a place with History’. The bodegón (cheap restaurant) is a stylish yet unpretentious locale with an emphasis on drinking, but with a self-service selection of food hidden away in its rear. Combining a dedication to the history of Argentina, with an always open policy, and stylish décor, Bellegamba attracts a young, socialising crowd with a slightly hip edge. It is quite possible – and an almost unheard of phenomenon – that the hip-ness of the patrons is illusory, draped on patrons as soon as they sit down and relax amongst the bar’s dark ambience. From the street, the interior seems to shimmer with a thousand chandeliers – this is the illusion created by a faint red glow through the thousands of bottles lined on every rafter, wall-space, or ledge above the patrons. Timeless chequered floors are not overcrowded with tables, and there are a couple of choice locations: comfortable benches to the left of entry, and a slightly elevated stage near the front window with a few seats and a good view of the clientele. The walls are mobbed with framed pictures of old celebrities, black and white portraits and faded advertisements for medicinal products probably no longer endorsed by the Argentine Health Board. Sounds are provided by a modern-by-comparison jukebox. This is a good chance to hear some tracks by the Argentine musicians that are advertised by the t-shirts of the restaurants regulars.
Bellegamba Bodegón has its niche painted out: a vast selection of alcohol complimented by a selection of food pre-plastic plated and hidden out of sight near the back of the restaurant. A chalk-board on the street features constantly changing specials from $1AR empanadas to a quarter of a chicken for $4AR. A huge selection of mixed drinks and cocktails are available, as well as a wine list comprising a few pages. A gin and tonic costs $7AR, a tall, strong Fernet & Coke $8AR. The beer prices are not on the menu but painted above the fridge: $7AR for a litre of Budweiser. —Bellegamba Bodegón review by Murdoch Stephens
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