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Buenos Aires, Argentina > Buenos Aires nightlife > Lo de Celia Tango Lo de Celia TangoHumberto Primero 1783 (@Entre Rios); Tel. + (00.54.15) 4945.2678 (Señor Dario)
Lo de Celia Tango is where elderly Argentine crime lords take their wives on their anniversary. That’s the only conclusion I could come to when I had to pass through a metal detector to enter a place that felt like a particularly upscale Elks Lodge filled with well-dressed 70 year olds. Lo de Celia Tango is on the second floor of an unmarked building in Constitucion. When it’s open, which is generally very late at night, its identifiable by the hulking mustachioed bouncer standing outside the door. And of course the metal detector. Once inside, head up the stairs and pay the cover charge to the ancient doorman, who sits inside a little booth selling gum and cigarettes, though presumably not condoms. Enter through the other side of a heavy curtain which becomes a large room that looks something like a VFW hall in upstate Pennsylvania crossed with an Italian Social Club. The curtains and tablecloths are done in yellow the color of Dijon mustard, and two bright halogens illuminate the every wrinkle in the septaugenarian clientele. There’s around a hundred small tables clustered around a large dance floor, where BA’s senior citizens tango cheek to cheek in their finest evening wear. It feels like everyone is moving through molasses. It’s the place to be for the seventy-something set, especially if one should happen to be single and looking for an Argentine who knows how to dance. Liters of Quilmes cost $5AR in Lo de Celia Tango, and a small bottle of wine is $6AR. They also serve empanadas and tortas for around $3AR apiece. —Lo de Celia Tango review by Sam Slaughter
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