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Buenos Aires, Argentina > Buenos Aires restaurants > La Chirilísima La Chirilísima695 Olvarria (@ Palos)
Visitors that believe what certain guide books warn about staying out of La Boca are likely to miss some serious heart and soul of Buenos Aires. La Chirilísima is a perfect example of this syndrome. It is located just a couple of blocks from the heavily-touristed El Caminito in La Boca and those who stagger the final steps will not find a camera-toting tourist group in sight – what a treat. This is the kind of place where the history of Buenos Aires is not advertised in multi-lingual menus or sophisticated press releases. Instead, the history of this café, the neighborhood, and the people of Buenos Aires oozes easily from the cracks in the walls. The café is little more than 10 tables and a counter where typical porteño fare is on offer. Menu highlights include melt-in-your-mouth milanesa for $7AR and heart-stopping cups of hot chocolate with churros for $6AR. All are served on ancient placemats on chipped dishes. Argentina’s Rock Nacional soundtrack sings out of the radio, except on game days when patrons (alongside everyone else in country) have their eyes glued to the TV. The owner whistles while he works and the café’s cat will likely snooze away the day on the chair next to you. The place is silly with charm. La Chirilísima is a third incarnation of a café that is over 100 years old and often referred to as El Bar de Cucho, after its owner. After a meal, diners should take time to reflect over the gorgeous mural of the old docks and fascinating old photos of floods and fires in La Boca. Don’t skip over the signed portrait of Diego Maradona – this is a footballer’s joint in La Boca after all. With a hot lunch for under $10AR and all this style, it might be worth straying from the beaten path. —La Chirilísima review by Clare Nisbet
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