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Buenos Aires, Argentina > Buenos Aires nightlife > Club Atlético Fernández Fierro Club Atlético Fernández FierroSánchez de Bustamante 764 (@ Lavalle)
The Club Atlético Fernández Fierro is located on an otherwise dark and unassuming back street in the historic and famous tango district of Almagro, Buenos Aires. Visitors who arrive at the location for the first time often look confounded as the joint boasts no signage or anything really from the street to indicate that one is entering anything other than a backstreet warehouse. After walking the long corridor and paying the $10AR entrance fee, guests step into a giant space that looks like a bygone airplane hanger with its domed, high ceiling. The place has been transformed into the essence of underground cool with giant, industrial light fixtures, garage sale furnishings, and all the focus on the stage. Everyone knows the music starts at midnight and the place is packed by 10:30pm. But with space for just a few hundred revelers, and only a few chairs scattered around the perimeter, people arrive early to stake out a space to watch the home team play - the Orquesta Típica Fernández Fierro. While the venue is host to a few other events (those interested can visit the C.A.F.F. website for details on Wednesday evening tango lessons and dancing), the Orquesta is the real reason to visit. The band is made up of 12 young (attractive!) men – 11 musicians and a singer – playing tangos of yesterday and today to a crowd ranging in age from newborn to nearly-dead. For those who love tango music – this is the real deal. For those who don’t understand why others love tango music so much – come to C.A.F.F. and get a crash course on why. This is tango for the 21st century with young men whipping their bandoneónes around like their asses are on fire and belting out a huge and impassioned sound that Gardel himself might have trouble rivaling. The atmosphere is rapt from the first note and the trance is only interrupted between songs for absolutely thunderous applause threatening to tear the place to the ground. The club boasts a small bar. Those in the know place their order and pay on the far right side of the bar and collect their drink on the left while first-timers wait in frustration on the left hand side and never get served. Prices are reasonable with liters of Quilmes going for $7AR and other liters going for just $5AR. Bottles of wine range from $12-20AR and mixed drinks are around $10AR. Hungry people waiting for hours to see a killer show can snack down on empanadas, sandwiches, or other daily offerings. The bar continues the warehouse-style cool with its chalkboard menu and super friendly staff. For those who want to guarantee themselves a table, a great view of the Orquesta, and a kick-ass time, reservations can be made by emailing C.A.F.F. before 6pm the night of the show. The reservations expire at 10:30pm, at which point the table space becomes a free for all. For tango lovers and newbies alike, this is a must-see event of tango’s favorite barrio. —Club Atlético Fernández Fierro review by Clare Nisbet
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